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Ceuse

Francie není jen Buoux

Tak prolétlo jaro, po něm léto, které je již v plném proudu a tak si možná rádi přečtete jeden z tipů, kde ho strávit.

O Ceuse jsme již několikrát psali, ale popis oblasti s návodem, jak se tam dostat ten ještě tu chyběl.


Rozložení sektorů

Něco bylo napsáno v Montaně článek tuším od RT  vám tehdy představil oblast jako vysoko položenou a s malými převisy. Je to  pravda ke stěnám se vine hezky dlouhá cesta a lezci odchovaní Višňovými převisy budou znechuceni. Avšak vy ostatní, kteří stůněte po dokonalém  francouzském vápnu zavítejte do kraje Haute Durance.



Oblast má díky n.m. výšce vysokohorský charakter

Ceuse je vysoko položená lezecká oblast necelých sto kilometrů jižně od Grenoblu se nachází přímo nad městečkem Gap. Přímo nad městečkem znamená sice ještě asi 15 km po klikatící se silnici do kopce, ale při pohledu z Gapu je Ceuse nepřehlédnutelné.



Nejoblíbenější sektor Caskády

Charakter :   kolem 80 m vysoké plotnovité stěny, tři sektory dosti převislé, ve velkých převisech lezení po relativně dobrých chytech, cesty všech obtížností,
jsou zakončeny řetězy, jištění nýty je nové ojediněle odvážné
Cesty :   rozděleny do 14 sektorů , přibližně po dvaceti cestách



Sektor Demi-lune se známou cestou Moi et Lui 8a

Sektory :

1 Sector  Golots a gogo
2 Sector  Dalles des Capetes
3 Sector de la Cascade
4 Sector de la Cascade
5 Sector Thorgat
6 Sector Face de rat
7 Sector Berlin
8 Sector Biographie
9 Sector Demi -lune
10 Sector Un pont sur l´infini
11 Sector Les maitres du monde
12 Sector Grande face
13 Sector Nithsapa
14 Sector Natilik



Sektor Caskády, v pozadí Dalles des Capetes


Nocování : nadivoko se zatím toleruje a pod stěnami jsou prostorné převisy, s řadou provizorních bivaků, stážci parku jen zřídka vyšlápnou kopec, aby se snažili lezce vyhnat z doupat avšak pro pohodlnější pobyt je jednoznačně ideální kemp, kde je k dispozici sprcha, a malá lezecká stěnka.



Sektor Berlín a jeho 50m kompaktní zeď

Potraviny : voda je přímo z vodopádku vyvěrajícího ze skal v blízkosti sektoru Cascade, v sedle Les Guernes je fontana s vynikající pitnou vodou a také v Sigoyer na hlavní třídě lze najít fontánu, obchod z potravinami dokonce i pekař je ve vesnici Sigoyer také, lépe je však nakoupit v supermarketu v Gapu.
Ostatní :   koupání v řece Durance (18 km), čistá a studená nebo v rybníku poblíž cesty do Gapu. Nedaleko se také nachází veliké jezero Lac de Serre-Poncon. 

JirkaS   [úpravy] 14:03 22.07.2002Tisk 

Reklama:


Související články:
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Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 Jo, jo, jo, jo
Jooooo, Ceuse, Annot, šutru pod Selouv Dolomitech a Jezírko, jsou ty nejlepší oblasti na světě.
Zapsal: Hop, 14:12:28 22.07.2002
 fakt pekny
Doost pekny fotky. Jak na to koukam, tak se mi uplne zacinaji potit prsty. Dik za dobry tip
Zapsal: Musado, 15:31:38 22.07.2002
 Dobrej článek
Jirko, dobrej článek, moc pěkný fotky. Jen bych potřeboval vyjasnit větu "jištění nýty je nové ojediněle odvážné". Znamená to, že je tu a tam (tu a tam=ojediněle) odvážné, nebo že je všude nezvykle (nezvykle=ojediněle) odvážné? :=)
Zapsal: Petr Jandík, 17:41:31 22.07.2002
 Jisteni
Jisteni je na vetsibe cest podle francouskeho standartu. Rozhodne ne po dvou metrech spise po 3. Ale na nekterych cestach zacina nad zemi normalne (3m mezi nyty ) a cim clovek se dostava vyse, tim trochu ridne. Chce to trochu moralu, ale proti piskum je to stale pohoda.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 07:26:16 23.07.2002
 Ještě jištění
Podle mých zkušeností jsou to převážně cesty se starými nýty z "vinglu", na kterých je vyraženo P.E. (asi nějaký "neznámý" francouzský lezec). Vzdálenosti cca kolem 5 metrů, ale vzhledem k tomu, že lezl i pěkná sóla, tak docela dobře zajištěné. Tyto cesty nejsou ani "omaglazovaný", a tak bych je doporučil všem moralizujícím pískařům. A pro ty ostatní, cesty jsou jištěné dobře. Určitě se tam jeďte podívat a zalézt. Oblast je ideální i na francouzské léto (červen a červenec). Čolek
Zapsal: Michal Zemek, 07:36:42 23.07.2002
 obtiznost??
cesty vsech obtiznosti znamena, ze si tam dobre zaleze i sedmickar? Nerad bych se vlacel stovky km a zjistil, ze to co je v mych moznostech prelezu za dva dni a dost :)), nevite nejaky link na pruvodce?
Zapsal: kubik, 09:41:13 23.07.2002
 Ještě k Ceusse
Ceuse je opravdu vynikající oblast na léto, na Kaskádě stín 9-12 hod, ve většině ostatních sektorů 15-večer, teplota díky nadmořské výšce cca 1900 m příjemná (na lezení, na koukání až chladno).
Lezení v 6 fr. stupni na moc dlouho ne, výše na dost dlouho. Lezení velmi rozmanité, ve stručnosti: Kaskáda značně převislá a vytrvalostní, ostatní sektory spíše kolmé až lehce převislé, tedy technicko-vytrvalostní, velmi sedí většině pískařů.
Jištění směrem výše občas řídne ( Ríša Litochleb říkal, že budou muset v Labáku něco vytlouct, to přece nejde, aby měli ve Francii větší vzdálenosti mezi nýty než my v Čechách) ale platí to od sedmiček výše a je to fakt bezpečné.
Hlavní lahůdka Ceusse je nástup (převýšení cca 400 - 500 m )z čehož vyplývá: někdo spí nahoře, to znamená drsnou vynášku, někdo v kempu ( velmi příznivá cena cca 100 Kč na osobu bez ohledu na stan, či auto ) nebo v lesíku na horním parkovišti u studánky, což znamená se každý den pěkně projít a něco zhubnout.

Ceusse je naprostá špička, ať si RT říká co chce, takže příští léto. Ciao Karel


Zapsal: KarelSV, 16:13:22 23.07.2002
 RT
RT souhlasi, ze je Ceuse jedna z nejkouzelnejsich oblasti v Evrope, pouze kdysi konstatoval, ze pro spickoveho zavodnika tady nejsou dostatecne moznosti vyziti jako treba v Ospu, Arcu, Orgonu... a pochopitelne Visnovem, cha, cha... Nebo v Labaku? Abych neurazil...
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